The
White Rock at Vilcabamba: The Sacred Heart of the Inca?
In the Inca
heartlands of Peru, hidden away in the mountains and overshadowed by the more
famous Inca ruins at Machu Picchu and around Cusco lies a seldom visited and
obscure carved rock at Vilcabamba. But this forgotten
sculpture was one of the holiest sites in the Inca empire.
The site,
and the buildings in the nearby settlement of Vitcos,
were the ceremonial heart of the Inca empire. It was here that the Inca retreated
to, and here that the last of the Inca culture died out.
In 1911, the American politician and
archaeologist Hiram Bingham started a scientific study of the ancient Inca site
in Peru called Machu Picchu. He was a proficient mountaineer, having learned the skill from his father, and
this helped him greatly in his Inca research.
In July
1911, Bingham set out on an archaeological expedition funded by Yale University.
The main objective of this expedition was to discover "the lost city of the
Inca," known as Vilcabamba.
Hiram Bingham at Machu Picchu, 1912 (Yale
University / Public Domain)
While the
chance of finding the site was considered to be quite
low, the courage and steadfastness of Hiram Bingham led to the ultimate success
of the expedition. Vilcabamba and the nearby Vitcos were located and charted by Bingham, and the secret second
capital of the Inca was once again on the map.
The white
stone of Vilcabamba and Vitcos
are situated on a hilltop, about some hundred meters above the hamlet of Huancacalle, located in the Vilcabamba
valley. Vitcos was a high-status settlement, reserved
for the residences of the Inca nobles and as a
ceremonial center.
The region
where Vitcos is located is quite rugged. The terrain
includes low land jungle, snow-covered mountains, rivers,
and forests, and transportation and access to the area is quite difficult even
today.
But the
Inca had been here since at least Since 1450 AD. At that time, they established
their major centers at Vilcabamba, Machu Picchu, Vitcos, and Choquequirao. Vitcos was primarily the home during this period for a number of royal Inca. It was also popular as a
religious site, especially near the Ñusta Hispana, the “white rock.”
After the
conquest of the Inca by the Spanish conquistadors, Vitcos
was largely forgotten, lying relatively undisturbed for centuries until its
rediscovery by Hiram Bingham during his expedition in 1911. The descriptions
left behind by the conquistadors had led Bingham to concentrate on a region
called "Rosaspata."
The same
descriptions ultimately led him to the discoveries of the palace of Vitcos and the sacred white stone. But here Bingham made an
error: after mapping both the sites, he kept on in his search for the last city
of Inca. Only later was he successful in correctly identifying Vilcabamba and Vitcos for what
they were.
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Vitcos is
still rarely visited by people, and it hasn’t been restored unlike a number of more famous Inca sites. It is
located in an easily defensible position surrounded by steep mountain
sides, only accessible by a single narrow strip. The commanding view of the
mountain passes approaching the site makes it clear that this was an important
location in the landscape.
Ñusta Hispana, or the white rock, is located nearby. The sacred rock is about 50 feet (15 m) across
and is covered with engravings and carvings. The white stone is
located in the center of a temple area, where the rituals of the Inca were
performed.
The carved
stone had a natural spring running around the rock, creating a dark pool at its
base. The Inca priests were known to call upon the spirits in this pool, up
against the stone's vertical side. The first Spaniards who visited Vitcos during the reign of Manco Inca, a post-conquistador
Inca ruler, used to attend the important Inca rituals at the white stone.
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Some
findings reveal that Titu Cusi, the son of Manco Inca, had invited two friars in order to stay at Vitcos.
However, the two friars believed that the rock was actually
devoted to worshipping the devil.
Inca sculpture in the ruins of the site
(Mathat35 / CC BY-SA 3.0)
Some reports
even said that the devil used to appear at the white stone. The devil was known
to wound and kill his worshippers, bellowing with a wild roar as
he did so. It was believed that the people would come from distant places to
offer sacrifices and gifts out of fear of this devil.
As a
result, the Spanish invaders decided to destroy the site.
According
to Bingham, while Titu Cusi was elsewhere, Friar Garcia and Friar Ortiz
accompanied converted natives to the site in order to
burn down the Sun Temple, scorching the nearby white rock. The act of burning
down the Sun Temple was mainly aimed at banishing Lucifer, the devil, from that place.
However,
this act made the Inca grow angry, and they almost killed the two friars. But Titu
Cusi was known to be a generous man, and apparently a political pragmatist. So,
he spared the lives of the two friars, banishing one from the empire of Inca, but
allowing the other, Friar Ortiz, to stay.
Unfortunately,
this decision proved to be fatal for Friar Ortiz, when Titu Cusi died suddenly
of an unknown disease. The Inca people started blaming the friar for
the death of Titu Cusi. For this reason, Friar Ortiz was tortured and finally
killed.
Today, the
crafted stones lay scattered near the cliff of the great temple, and mark the place where the
sacred rituals of the Inca were performed. But the site is no longer forgotten: owing to the history that the place holds,
tourists are showing an interest in visiting the place and viewing the white
stone at the sacred heart of the Inca.
Top
Image: The white rock at Vilcabamba. Source: Walter_Xim / Adobe Stock.
By Bipin
Dimri
Vitcos
and the White Rock. Available at: http://www.coocookachoo.org/2011/10/12/vitcos-and-the-white-rock/
Vitcos –
The Incas second capital. Available at: http://viking-expedition.com/vitcos/
VITCOS, THE
LAST INCA CAPITAL. Available at: https://www.americanantiquarian.org/proceedings/45647892.pdf
Location: Huancacalle,
Peru
Category: Ancient places -
Americas
Keyword: Inca white rock
Tags: Peru, Cusco, Machu Picchu, sacred,
religion, conquistador
Facebook: The Inca are famous for
their breathtaking Andean architecture at Machu Picchu and Cusco. But the
sacred heart of their empire is much less well known. What is Ñusta Hispana,
the sacred white rock of the Inca?
Short Title: The Sacred White
Rock at Vilcabamba
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famous for their breathtaking architecture at Machu Picchu. But Ñusta Hispana, the sacred white
rock at heart of their empire is less well known.